Good Night and Good Luck....

I'm home! And alive!! Thanks everyone who read this blog, commented, emailed, kept my spirits up, and understood that grammar is not really my thing. Special thanks to Steve, Sridhar, Sarita, Sev, and Sarah for hosting/hanging out with me, and another even more special thanks to LauraK for not being afraid to share my tent or touch my arm when I said: "Touch my arm! It's gross! Should it be like this?"

American Airlines--my thanks is delayed due to a gate change. One day you might get it when I get my luggage.

Anyway--words cannot express this trip, but I will do my best and turn to the greats--

Now I've....had the time of my life....and I've never felt this way beforeeeeee....this I swear, it's the truth!! And I owe it all to youuuuuuuuuu!"

Photos and Stories: Peru

After setting off, all alive and aglow....















And surviving both Dead Woman's Pass and the surrounding mountains.....



















We arrived shortly after sunrise expecting to see the beautiful and amazing Machu Picchu---but instead saw mostly fog...
















But we waited it out, and out of the fog emerged....











Yes, the ever-present lama!! Whohoo!! (One comment: "Do you think that this is heaven? But with Lamas?") Anyway, after the fog (finally!) moved, we saw it---one of the most incredible places in the world!!











































The pictures don't really do the city justice, but it was unbelievable. As I said before, the Incas were nothing if not hardcore, and also in seriously good shape--they seemed to have a complete love affair with steep stairs. The lack of cathedrals means that the Spanish never found the 'lost city' - but sadly, the Incas only built it to have to leave shortly after they heard of the Spanish arrival. Regardless, I think it should be one of the 7 wonders of the new world--it's incredible! And before I forget, the lovely LauraK deserves a HUGE shout out for planning the entire trip, being awesome, and managing to completely gracefully walk the trail without ever breaking a sweat:

































THANK YOU LAURA!!!!!

And, small shout out to my feet, for not giving up the ghost (Me: "How do they look?" LauraK "Umm, you look like you have been shackled.") I will spare everyone the pic I took for posterity!

And lest I forget, there IS a Save Tall Dave pic from Peru. And it was NOT AT ALL doctored. At all. Thanks Mom!!


So if you have a chance--go trek the Inca Trail! Just don't take American Airlines to get there!!

The Inca Trail

I made it! The Inca Trail was crazy--after 4 days, I got the sense the the Incas were nothing if not hardcore. It was both great and terrible, as the day to day breakdown will show:

Day 1: 5:45 am Departure from Cusco. "Easy" hike for most of the day through some beautiful Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley. Gain 700 meters by the end of the day, mostly in the last hour and a half of the hike. The porters or "chaskies" (Inca term for messenger) do a great job and produce amazing food for us at lunch and a beautiful camp at the end of the day. Day 1 Evening: Feel sick. No dinner.

Day 2: 5:15 wake up. Get ready for the hardest day of the trek, which includes over 5.5 hours of steep uphill hiking, gaining over 1000 meters of altitude in one morning, and climbing through something ominously called "Dead Woman's Pass." All of the hiking today is either straight up or straight down, and it is a very long day. Day 2 Mid-Morning: See dead woman's pass from far far away. Feel like Dead Woman. Day 2 Later Morning: Last one up Dead Woman's Pass! Collapse at top while LauraK takes "entertaining" photos. Altitude Sickness begins. Day 2 Evening: Guides treat my blisters with "home remedy." Severe Altitude Sickness, no sleep.

Day 3: 6:30 wake up. Coldest camping spot, with temps below freezing. Feel 175 years old, look at least 150. Blister home remedy makes things worse, get told I now have "chasky" feet. This is not a compliment. Sick, so no breakfast. Easier trek today, just 6 hours, most of which is steep STEEP downhill and into a jungle, but the beginning is uphill, and I notice that we are ABOVE the clouds. Not doing so good. Lead guide sends me and the 2nd guide on a shortcut to make camp faster. He fails to mention that while shorter, it is HARDER. Begin to feel feverish during shortcut. Make camp after everyone else, raging fever begins. Day 3 evening: Apparently I passed out.

Day 4: 4 am wake up. 2.5 hour trek to Machu Picchu!!! Feel better after fever breaks. Manage to eat! Yay! Trek in complete darkness, group is told to "walk not too slow, and not too fast." I soldier on to keep up, do not want to get lost in the dark. Misty. Wait....is that....wait....yes! Machu Picchu!! YES!! And it is BEAUTIFUL!! Wow!! Fog (eventually) clears and we take our tour in the sun. While group hares off to do "optional" additional mountain hike, I lay down and try not to die. Day hikers walk past and say "ooh, look at her sleeping...she must be on an all-day hike!" I try not to sarcastically scream "4 DAYS my friend, 4 DAYS!!" But it was worth it. Too bad it will now take us approx 7 hours to get back to Cusco....

Anyway--I've been pretty sick the whole trip, and am only just feeling better today. Laura and I have huge hopes that my appetite will be back and we can have a nice dinner. Regardless, I've learned a lot and am glad I did it. I'll do a high and low points post soon!!

American Airlines: Journey into the Heart of Darkness

1. Friends do not let friends fly American Airlines

I arrived at the airport at 10.30 am thinking that all would be easy. I breeze past the calm and quiet Delta check-in and start looking around for American. Which I discover is hidden behind throngs of angry people. Hordes and masses even. I find LauraK and our descent into despair, AA style, begins.

Highlights:
1. No system for dealing with masses of departing people is in place. Someone said weather caused problems, but no other airlines had lines. The check in people were allowing people to miss their flights
2. A small riot broke out when they called our flight foward (but only a few rows of people). Checkin guy made a mistake when he loudly told angry people from earlier flights thta had they gotten into the airport on time, they would have made their flight
3. Security was called in after aforementioned commment. Tempers flare and things get ugly
4. In high lurker mode, I heard the call to bring people on the 12.10 departure forward. I race back to LauraK, and she sends me into the melee to tr yand break into line ahead of people who have already missed flights and are getting yelled at by AA personnel for wanting to fly. Crazy. WE do not want to be come them.
5. I open up the line barriers, slip in, and try and blend--my years of flying standby pay off!
6. 30 people follow me
7. One of them is LauraK and the guy behind her, who has decided we are a good bet
8. THe crowd starts yelling about people cutting in line
9. We keep a low profile and pray to get checked in. We are international, so cannot do the kiosk
10. Successful checkin! One happy family wiht guy behind us
11. Plane delayed!
12. Plane delayed? Again?
13. Miami...sigh. I hate that airport
14. Gate change
15. Plane delayed because all planes are currently delayed for no apparent reason. Plane delay announcements are the only ones we hear.
16. Plane delayed
17. ANOTHER gate change¿
18. Plane delayed
19. Boarding!
20. Ummm, why are we not moving?
21. BEcause our plane is DELAYED.
22. Arrive in Lima, 5.5 hours late, and definitely bitter

Shockingly, our luggage made it. WE however, only had a few hours before departure to Cusco. I am in Cusco!! 5th continent, acheived!!

2 days here to acclimate, and then we hit the trail. Laura and I are nothing if not hardcore.**

**Definitions of ´hardcore´ may vary
***Shout out to Mike Obalde and Jason Maga for great camping tips and also providing knives (Mike) and a compass (Mike) and the advice to drink lots of water (Jason). If it all goes wrong, I am looking at you two!!

Intermission continued....

Me at the end of the world

Bristol/Clevedon Beach
Queen Mary's Rose Garden

Sarah and I at 3 City Garden Row, Islington. Our old address. It was much sketchier than we remembered!!

Intermission.....

India: Which fruits have you never seen before?

India: Sarita and I feeling the silk do-rag

India: Geetika and I after a hard day of pictionary

London: Severine and I in London when she dropped me off
London: Sarah and I--tea at the Savoy!!! I'm still full 3 days later....

Home now after a looong flight that included an unscheduled stop in Philadelphia (thank you weather over Dulles coupled with low fuel) but eventually I made it home and slept for 10 hours straight. Now, a week to regroup before I head out again. I do seem to have a yen to play children's games...just NOT pictionary. Any takers?

The UK: Our Best Friend

....No matter what Canada says. So, the morning after landing from Bangalore my friend Severine took me rock climbing in Bristol! Only in the UK will you find a rock gym that used to be a church. Despite my poor form, protestations of jet-lag and malaria, and time wasted trash-talking, I did make it up the wall a bunch of times, and even managed to do a wall race. My time was the slowest, but I feel good about finding the ceiling nonetheless. Sev showed me a GREAT time in Bristol--we had a huge amount of fun. Special thanks to her for a great cup of tea, driving me back to London, and just generally being awesome!!

Now I'm in London with one Sarah Plotkin Paul, and we are revisiting our old haunts from back in the day--when we were but two young girls bartending our way around the city for a summer! Somehow we've managed to have high tea every day that we've been here (most recently at the Savoy), see "Dirty Dancing: The Musical!" and just generally enjoy London. We found our old apartment and the sketchy pub above which we lived, and it has been WONDERFUL.

I leave London today for home--where I'm hoping that my parents will be at the airport. I'll be in VA for just under a week, and then off to Peru!

3 continents down, 2 to go!

The Other Side of India

This is a picture of one of the slums in Bangalore. Migrant construction workers live here, without electricity or running water. Usually both parents work, so their children run the house, cook, and take care of all domestic duties. These are also some of the same children who come to MJ for a few minutes when/if they have the time. Without a place like MJ, they don't really have the option to be kids--most of the time they function like small grown ups.

In the background to the right you can see some of the buildings that they have built. They usually pitch tent cities right next to the construction site that they are currently working on. Most construction workers are actually female, as they are considered both cheaper, and more reliable.

I was lucky in my visit to India because I was in a fairly protected bubble, living with the upper class. But I was also lucky to get to see both sides of the story, and spend time with children who have so little, and yet seem so content.

Regardless, it was an eye opening experience. I am so glad I went.

Save Tall Dave! (India!)

More India Photos

The MJ kids during the youth summit

Sridhar's Street
The famed traffic
Me and many many mangos!
The kids I worked with after the youth summit

I'm in Bristol now but I will be posting more India pics before I leave the UK!

India Is AWESOME!

The Facilitation Team prior to kicking off the AI Youth Leadership Summit. Chitra, Sarita, Keshore and Sridhar. This was taken on my third day!

And then Sridhar and Sarita after spending two weeks with me...

:)

A very VERY special thanks to Sridhar for helping make this trip a possibility, answering all of my random/crazy questions. Taking me out for some of the best food of all time, and just generally being an amazing host!

I'm a Science Project!

India, Day 42,000:

Scene: MJ Learning Center
Time: Circle Time

Me: (Slowly spacing out b/c some things are being discussed in Kannada, and I can't follow. I suddenly feel a soft poke on my arm. I turn in time to see the little girl next to me reach out and poke me again.) "?"

Girl: "White. Your skin is real?"

Me: "Ummm...yes." (Wave hand around as I respond)

Girl: "Ohhh!!" (Grabs my hand and points at vein. Gestures eagerly at her friend and begins excited conversation in Kannada--the upshot: they can't believe that my veins are 1. Blue and 2. Visible through my skin!)

Me: "See--both hands!"

Girls: "Ohhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

After the skin excitement I took the kids out to play "Red Light/Green Light" in my best effort to reach back to my own childhood. Following some serious Red Light, the kids gathered around to continue the discussion on how white I am, which lead to a debate on what color I turn when I exercise/blush etc: pink or red. Vigorous discussion sparked with expansive hand gestures all around. Suddenly, one of the boys launched himself at me and pinched both of my cheeks REALLY hard. A chorus of "oohhhhs" resulted with a clean settlement: I turn pink. The boy, with an articulate "See, I was right" gesture walked off--point proven.

I cracked up.

My time in Bangalore is almost over and it has been great, wonderful, amazing and powerful. Is that enough adjectives? It's late and I can't tell anymore. So much has happened that I can't even try and capture it, but I feel an overwhelming need to share. High points included Sridhar creating a "spice scale" to rate the spice level in all the food (I was allowed 2 and under, and after a malaria pill incident left me feeling "slightly off" I was reduced to a 0, with Chitra bending over backwards to make me my own dishes with less spice), learning how to cut a mango and tell if it is ripe by smell (there will be a picture of this soon), mango mania involving over 100 types of mango, surviving at least 5 "Dashes of Death" (crossing the street, usually with Sarita prepping me, holding my hand and shouting "Run!" at the appropriate time), swimming under the stars, having the kids tell me that "I will miss you Auntie" (term of respect) on my last day, being everyone's favorite pictionary partner, doing great session designs and Appreciative Inquiry work, and just being in India. India = awesome. Special thanks to Sridhar, Chitra and Sarita for hosting me, keeping me healthy, and showing me a beautiful culture and an amazing time. Also, for wearing the do-rags (there will be pics on this too!) and connecting with their inner Harley Davidson.

It's late at night and I need to be at the airport by 4:30 am so I will close this post here, though I feel like there is so much more to say. Anyway, hopefully the pictures (when I can get my computer on the net) will speak for themselves. Next post will probably be from either Bristol or London UK. Crazy plans are in the works!!

***One day I promise to write a post when I'm not jet lagged/tired/confused/hopped up on sugar

My Gene Pool...

Special thanks to Mom and Dad for giving me a Stomach of STEEL. So far, illness 0, Me 1.

USA Fruit Failures

India, Day 10:

I've completely shocked Sridhar's Mother (heretofore "Grandma S").

I hate to admit it, but I now must come out in the open....until yesterday, I had never seen a pomegranate.

A resounding silence occurred after this information was released. As a result, I am now in possession of a fruit chart used to help children so that I can identify all of the other fruits that America has failed me on. New fruit count: 7, including Papaya, Pomegranate, Custard Apple, Chickoo, Loquat, Muskmelon, 4 types of Mangos (only 130 more to try! Also, best fruit EVER) and Malta. There are more that I am forgetting, but I have my work cut out for me. The great fruit search has begun!!

How to Become Popular....

....When you don't speak the language.

India: Day 9?

1. Play English-only pictionary with teens who don't really speak English. Your mad skills and vocabulary will cause your popularity to skyrocket!

2. Don't shy away from dancing in the rain while letting 8-9 small boys enthusiastically splash you. The fact that you are 4-15 times their size only gives them more to hit! Instant success!

3. Fail to do the correct $ to rupee translation in your head so that you end up spending a (small) fortune on silk! If you spend over a certain amount, they will start giving YOU gifts.

4. Stand around. The fact that you are (on average) half a foot taller and 30 shades whiter than everyone else will provoke people to talk to you! What are they saying? Well--just follow our learnings and DON'T PET THE COBRA.

**Sridhar's mother continues to be fascinated by me. She came over and hung out with me for an hour yesterday and today. So far she has decreed the following:
1. Saris (sp?) "Do not suit me."
2. My hands are too big and my wrists are too small.
;)

Don't Pet the Cobra

India Day 6:

Scene: Sridhar's car, a random street corner (and by "street" we mean dirt road, and by "corner" we mean ditch)

3 girls with baskets walk by.


Sridhar: Oh look--it must be festival time. They have snakes. Do you want to see?

Me: What? Snakes? In the baskets?

Sridhar: Let's have a look (gets out)

Me: Ok (exits car)

girls run over excitedly

Sridhar: (Gesturing at me and the basket) Have a look--Cobras I think!

Me: Umm....What??!

Cue small mob scene as I am suddenly surrounded by several girls, who begin prodding me insistently.

Sridhar: Don't touch her! No touch!

Girls: (Prod Prod PROD)

Me: Help!!

Girls, in calculated military-style maneuver, cut me off from both the car and Sridhar. Shoving ensues. I end up in a nasty street fight with 3 large women. And by "nasty street fight" we mean "some shoving" and by "3 large women" we mean "maybe one 11 year old girl--but fiesty!"

Sarita: (Who has just pulled up to pick me up from Sridhar) Christie--run to the car!!

Me: (Dodging one final shove in matrix-style movement) Open the door!

Cue Indiana Jones Music as I dive through the car window**

Sarita: Whew! Good, they've moved on to Sridhar now

Me: Drive woman, drive!!


end scene.
**This may not have actually happened as written. However, we dare you to prove it.

Save the Children....Save the World!

India, Day 5:

Things I know:

1. I am the tallest woman in the city of Bangalore
2. If you sit on your left hand, you are less likely to accidentally eat with it
3. Sridhar is secretly my Grandma--his biggest concern is making sure that I eat
4. The cows are trained to go home at night
   

Things I haven't quite figured out yet:

1. The "Indian Bobble Head"---seems to be some sort of head movement that can mean a variety of things possibly including but not limited to: "Yes" "No" "Maybe" "I'm not sure" "That's crazy talk" "Not on your life" "Hell will freeze over first you mad MAD American"
2. Why okra tastes good here
3. If sticking your hand out and doing a dramatic jazz hand is a foul, no-go, no point or some sort of do over
4. Where the cows go home to

I just finished a three day Appreciative Inquiry Youth Leadership Summit with underprivileged kids from 13-19. It was so SO great!! Most of the summit was conducted in Kannada--the local dialect--with some English involved. As per usual, I was entirely clueless but at least this time I had reason! It was a challenge to have to rely a;most entirely on body language to understand, but also a great learning experience. By the end I was leading parts of the session and also facilitating the session hotwash and design planning. It was exhausting, invigorating, and crazy all at the same time, but I am so glad to be here and participate in this work. The most entertaining part: when one of the girls wanted to know why I wasn't married yet, and then determined that I need to be married by age 30. It really makes you think when an 18 year old hands down a decree like that! I also managed to use my mad skills to introduce "duck duck goose" to India and it was well received. Especially when I failed to run fast enough and ended up as the rotten egg.

So, so far, so good. I've eaten in a variety of "interesting" establishments (think Vienna Inn meets a jail dining hall but not as classy) where the food was, in the trend of sketchy diners, completely awesome!! I've also had Indian Chinese food, random fruits I can't even identify, and the best mango in the world. I've gone from slums to really posh houses, and I've only stuck my toothbrush in tap water twice. I feel good about that. So, all in all, a good beginning. I'm hoping my stomach continues to be made of steel because I suspect that the spice factor is going to go up this week!

So--tomorrow I go and volunteer directly at a children's center. Does anyone have any great children's games that can be communicated almost completely in sign language?**

** (Kbibs--I'm looking at you).

Planes, Trains, Automobiles...and a Camel?

India--Day 2.

Malaria Tablets: 3
Showers: 4
Bottles of Water: 5
Diet Pepsi: 1, and it was awesome.
Stomach: Healthy

So, I've arrived! And showered! And remembered my Malaria pills which I consider above and beyond! India is....well, I can't even find the words. The roads are a great example--there are no lanes. Well, sometimes there are but no one recognizes them. It's every walker (these people COURT death), biker, car driver, "auto" driver (three wheeled flimsy taxis that look a little bit like an old fashioned carriage from behind) and camel for himself. Yes, I said camel. And I'm sad that I don't have a picture to back it up. B/c it was truly awesome.

Sridhar and his family have been great. Staying with someone you have never met before is always awkward, but staying with someone from an entirely different culture and language who you've never met before really ups the "UN-comfortable" factor. But Sridhar and Chitra (his wife) have been very welcoming to their jet-lagged and clumsy american. After I asked how to hail an auto with an obvious glint of terror in my eye, Sridhar assured me that I would never go anywhere alone or unaccompanied. He's got a team of people working logistics for me, and I'm happy to take advantage of their kindness in this situation.

So, so far mostly good. After I napped yesterday I went to a session design meeting for the AI Youth Leadership Summit happening this weekend. It was so fun to help the Renga Foundation prepare for this summit--they are working with underprivileged youth and this summit marks the end of a 3 module camp. They are trying to teach the next generation some key skills (communication, leadership, values etc) and it is really wonderful work. The session kicks off tomorrow, and I'm to help facilitate/wander around. But it was a great thing to start off my first day--felt like being at home working with my own team at Touchstone!

The bad news is that I was also supposed to help with some other strategy work for an Indian NGO, however, the woman in charge unexpectedly left on Tuesday for the US. So--I may do some individual work at one of the Children's Centers (after-school centers for improverished youth, a way to keep the children out of trouble and help them continue to learn), if I am not too overwhelmed by the kids/my complete inability to communicate with them or most of the staff. That leaves my schedule more open than originally planned, so if anyone wants to come to India for a week....

Hee.

Oops, I'm being called to go to the "retail shop" before dinner. Sridhar's family has come to take a look at me for entertainment I think. His mom is a riot!

More to come soon!!

Bangalore!!

I made it!! BA delivered me safely, and even upgraded my seat (I was sitting next to a woman and her two children, but she only had two seats....not fun. More on the "screaming children following me" syndrome later), and Sridhar was waiting for me at the airport. I was immediately swarmed by baggage handlers at the baggage claim---single white girl with confused look, I know, easy target, but I managed to find Sridhar (or, he found me) and I'm now at his bungalow.

So, after 26+ hours of travel, I'm off to shower and bed.

More to come soon!!

Save Tall Dave!! (Africa Style!)

Evil Chuckle...

More Photos!

My foot, on the other side of the Atlantic!

Steve, his girlfriend Adrienne, and their friend Will prior to our swing dancing extravaganza. We were "dressed to please."





Penguins!!!

The end of the world, Cape Point.

London/Heathrow: Part 2

My last few days in Cape Town were AMAZING. I need to take a moment and thank Steve (captured in all his glory) for one of the best vacations ever! He bent over backwards to keep me fed, entertained and immersed in S. African culture. Steve, I'm doing my best round of golf clapping in what I think is your general direction (umm, to my left?). I'm so lucky to have such an amazing friend and I'm sending you another one of my patented hugs. You know which one!

Anyway, via Steve I saw:

• Springbok


• Ostrich


• Penguins!


• Rainbows!


• The most amazing night sky I've ever seen in my entire life


• S. Africa v. S. Africa Rugby (S. Africa won!)


• S. African Vineyards

And I ate:

• Springbok (tastes like sort of like steak! But lighter and more flavorful)


• Ostrich


• KingKlip (tastes like swordfish meets talipea)


• Riesling! (Ironically from Germany, but the best wine I've ever had)

Winter arrived in Cape Town this past weekend, but before it did I managed to spend Friday at the beach all day.....it was tough, but someone had to do it! We also supported some sort of charity by swing dancing, went to another Braii (in honor of the all-S. African Super 14 finale), drove to the end of the world (Cape Point), and saw some really really cute penguins. Africa has penguins!! Jason, you were right! Steve introduced me to about an average of 6-10 new people a day, and they were all amazing. Cape Town is truly a unique and welcoming city, and I am so sad that I had to go. Steve was forced to check my bags to make sure I hadn't made off with any of his friends, and then he gave me a gentle shake to detach me from his leg and sent me on my way.

So now I'm back in Heathrow ready to regroup with only one minor baggage incident under my belt. Positive step foward! I used the $20 Mom slipped me (not to be confused with the 10 Euro Dad gave me) for African water to import to India as instructed and therefore my checked baggage came in over the weight limit--and I was forced to split up my luggage. BA gave me another sad sad sad little bag and I filled it with water and dirty laundry, and sent both bags on their way. This time around I managed not to be stopped in Heathrow itself so I'm living large with my oversized carry-on! Whohoo I say! So the countdown to India continues, and I'm a little bit terrified. I think that this is where the real adventure begins.....

Photos!

My best breakfast club pose:

Sunrise over Cape Town from the top of Lion's Head

Steve being Steve....

and Table Mountain as seen from Lion's Head!